About this Photo
As a jetliner passes overhead, climbing into the distance, it feels like the perfect counterpoint to the Luciann Theatre, a forgotten architectural treasure that, conversely, has survived the wrecking ball. A fleeting moment of departure above a building that has spent decades refusing to disappear.
When we passed by, it was trading as the Paris Adult Entertainment Center, a pornographic cinema which inexplicably kept going until 2017. The only hint to its former opulence was its elaborate façade, topped by an elegant sunbeam pediment.
The aircraft overhead speaks of movement, escape and the promise of somewhere new, the Luciann speaks of the opposite, a building rooted to the same spot, carrying the weight of every chapter in its history, however glamorous or ignominious.
Part of the allure of Memphis lies perhaps in its failings. It is not a hugely financially successful city like Nashville, which has become the larger music business capital, but Memphis possesses the grit and verisimilitude that Nashville seemingly lacks. Memphis is stuck in the past, but unlike much of America, which often revels in the contrived, cloying and banal, its history is laid bare on almost every street corner. Beautiful and broken in equal measure, the city wears its past honestly, even when that past is deeply ugly.
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